Summer Dreaming

I had a chance to battle two snowstorms on recent visits to Summer Shack, a seafood joint on the Goochland/Richmond line, just West of Rt 288. While it's not haute cuisine, they do the fried seafood genre very well. Crabcakes, shrimp & grits, and oysters, and tuna tacos are also very good. It's a partnership of Bobby Dervishian, former co-owner of Patina Grill, and Stefan Crawford, formerly with the Border Chop House and chef at Mickey’s Crabhouse in Bethany Beach, Del., for 15 seasons.

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